After passing through Kuji, I entered Aomori Prefecture, heading from Hachinohe to Towada City. In Towada City, I parted ways with Route 45 and headed toward Lake Towada along the Oirase River. The Oirase River is the only river flowing out of Lake Towada.
久慈を経て青森県に入ると八戸から十和田市へ。十和田市で45号線と別れ、奥入瀬川沿いを十和田湖を目指しました。奥入瀬川は十和田湖から流れ出る唯一の川になります。
The lush greenery of the Oirase Stream and Lake Towada. It reminds me of the elementary school Japanese language textbook “The Princess trout of Towada.”
緑濃い「奥入瀬渓流」と「十和田湖」です。小学校の国語の教材「十和田のひめます」を思い出します。
Retracing our steps along the Oirase Stream, I headed toward Mount Hakkōda, opposite Towada City. The photo shows Kasamatsu Pass. On the way down to Aomori City, I stopped by “Nebuta no Sato.” The Aomori Nebuta Festival, one of Tohoku’s three major festivals, had already ended four days prior. Inside the museum, about ten nebutas were on display. This “Nebuta no Sato” closed several years ago.
Driving north from Aomori on Route 4, I merged onto Route 279 at Noheji and followed Mutsu Bay to a friend’s house in Mutsu City. The next day, starting early, he guided me on a counterclockwise tour around the Shimokita Peninsula by car.
再び奥入瀬渓流沿いを戻り十和田市とは逆の八甲田山へ、写真は笠松峠です。青森市内へと下る途中「ねぶたの里」に寄ってみました。すでに東北三大祭りの一つ「青森ねぶた祭り」は４日前に終わっています。館内には10台ほどのねぶたが展示されていました。この「ねぶたの里」は数年前に閉館しています。
青森から４号線を走り、野辺地から合流する279号線を陸奥湾沿いに北上、むつ市内の知人宅へ。翌日、早朝から車で下北半島を反時計回りにひと巡り案内してもらいました。
First, to Shiriyazaki, the eastern tip of the Shimokita Peninsula facing the Pacific Ocean. Shiriyazaki is known for the “Kandachime”, a short-legged, stocky horse of the Nanbu breed designated a Natural Monument of Aomori Prefecture. They earned their name from how they stand still in the snow. The wind was strong this time, and most horses had hidden in the nearby forest. By the way, what exactly is “Saihate”?! Next, I headed to Oma Cape. Here, a stone pillar states, “This is the northernmost point of Honshu.” The next day, I took a ferry from this port to Muroran.
Next, I went to Hotokegaura on the western “blade” of the axe-shaped Shimokita Peninsula, facing the Tsugaru Strait. You can take a sightseeing boat to see the coastline lined with bizarre rock formations.
まずは下北半島の東端、太平洋に面した「尻屋崎」へ。尻屋崎は青森県の天然記念物、短足でずんぐりとした南部馬系の「寒立馬(かんだちめ)」で知られています。雪の中でじっと立つ姿からそう呼ばれています。この時は風が強く、ほとんどの馬が近くの森の中に隠れていました。ところで「最崖」って何(?!)。続いて「大間崎」へ、こちらは石柱に「ここは本州最北端の地」とあります。翌日、この港からフェリーで室蘭へ渡ります。
次に斧の形をした下北半島の西側の刃の部分、津軽海峡に面した「仏ヶ浦」へ。遊覧船で奇岩の続く海岸線を見て回ることができます。
As dusk approached, I headed to the sacred site of Osorezan near Mutsu City for the day’s final destination. The very name “Sanzu River” suggests it separates this world from the next via a drum bridge. Crossing the drum bridge and walking a short distance brings you to the mountain gate of Osorezan Bodai-ji Temple; Osorezan is a proper temple. I heard this drum bridge is now too dilapidated to cross.
Venturing deeper into the temple grounds, the surroundings become milky white rocks. Amidst the pervasive smell of sulfur, several “such-and-such hells” await. Continuing further, the path connects from Sai no Kawara to Gokuraku Beach on the shore of the caldera lake, Lake Usoriyama. The Sanzu River is the only outlet flowing from Lake Usoriyama. Beyond the mountain in the photo lies Ōminato and Mutsu Bay.
Within the temple grounds, besides the lodging, there are four hut-like hot spring facilities, including mixed-gender baths. Anyone can bathe for free after paying the entrance fee. As darkness fell completely, I took a bath to wash away the day’s sweat.
Next time, I’ll be touring Hokkaido.
夕暮れが迫る中、この日の最後にむつ市に近い霊場恐山へ。その名も「三途川(さんずのかわ)」、太鼓橋によってこの世とあの世を隔てているそうです。太鼓橋を渡ってしばらく行くと恐山菩提寺の山門へ、恐山はれっきとしたお寺です。この太鼓橋ですが、今は老朽化で渡れなくなったと聞きました。
境内から奥に進むとあたりは乳白色の岩々に。そして立ち込める硫黄の臭いとともにいくつもの「何とか地獄」が待ち受けています。さらに進むと「賽の河原」からカルデラ湖「宇曽利山湖(うそりやまこ)」の湖畔の「極楽浜」へと繋がっています。宇曽利山湖から唯一流れ出ているのが三途川です。写真の山の向こうが大湊、陸奥湾になります。
菩提寺の境内には宿坊の他に混浴を含め四つの小屋風の温泉施設があり、入山料を払うと誰でも無料で入湯できます。あたりが真っ暗になる中、ひとっ風呂浴びてこの日の汗を流しました。
次回から北海道を巡ります。
My Life with Bicycles 